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The following may hopefully clear up some of
the confusion re 'T' rated fridges - but will I fear inevitably introduce
some more! The Climate Classes' referred to are part of a European Union
initiative (called Energy+) to reduce energy consumption of fridges etc.
The official title is 'European Communities (Energy Efficiency Requirements
for Household Refrigerators, Freezers and Combinations Thereof Regulations
1197) - effective 3rd September 1999. As part of this. the EU issues a
directive in Sept 1999 that banned the sales of a wide range of low-energy
units. In particular no unit may use more than 280 kWh/year.
The concept of 'Climate Class' is an inherent
part of this initiative. There are several such classes. 'SN' = sub-normal,
'N' = normal, 'ST- sub-tropical, 'T' = tropical. Unfortunately its get
a bit complicated for the next few paras! Because refrigerators contain
different compartments of different sizes maintained at different temperatures
(which significantly affects energy consumption), the maximum allowable
electricity consumption is defined in practice as a function of adjusted
volume, which is the weighted sum of the volumes of the different compartments.
The relevant Climate Class is a co-efficient in a complex formula - and
each Climate Class is, in turn, a weighting co-efficient that is related
to the intended temperature of each compartment. The full mathematics
are in the UK's 'Statutory Instrument 1997, No 1941 - 'The Energy Efficiency
(Refrigerators and Freezers) Regulations 1997 ISBN 0 11 064778 5 - and
can be pulled off the web.
It is probable that 'T'-rated fridges are currently produced in Austria,
Germany, Finland, France, Italy, Holland, Norway, Portugal, Sweden and
the UK. Dometic's responses re all this seem strange - particularly the
denials from members of their staff that these regs even exist! The fact
remains that the company is selling heaps of 'T' rated units - and I have
personally seen at least 50. All work very well. If the fridge's compliance
plate has a line 'Climate Class' followed by a 'T' that fridge is Tropical
rated. If Climate Class is followed by anything else - or nothing - then
it's not. (see next articles below) Trusting this may help (a bit)
Collyn Rivers
The page below will take you to a photo of an actual label. Look along
the bottom line for "Climate Control". Interestingly the units
at the show seemed to be all made in Germany (not Sweden) and used a totally
new label. My info on the fridges came from a state branch techie. (plus
I own an RM 2553) Collyn Rivers has also seen it and can verify the cabinet
temps.
http://www.around-oz.com/innovations_mh/electrolux_tropicalised.htm
The page below shows you the new "mechanism". They are fitted
to all Winnies I have seen this year including all those at the show.
(we have to photograph for website customers)
http://www.around-oz.com/innovations_mh/electrolux_winnebago_flues.htm
The 150 litre model RM2553 is tropical. (draws 195 watts on 240 volt).
At the Brissie caravan show we came across a lot of "Made in Germany"
Electrolux/Dometic fridges and these have a new label with no mention
of climate. Tricky, tricky!!! There is a picture of a TROPICALISED label
on this page - hope this helps to solve the mystery.
http://www.around-oz.com/innovations_mh/electrolux_tropicalised.htm
The Euro standard covers climate classes:
SN Sub normal, N Normal, ST Sub Tropical and T Tropical.
RM 2350 90 litre - No Climate Class noted
RM2330 is a class N fridge (possibly the
same as a 2350 model in Australia)
RM2553 - 150 litre - Climate Class T.
RM 4401 100litre - Climate Class SN
RM 2453 120litre - Climate Class T.
All made in Sweden.
There have been many performance complaints
about the RM4401 which, whenyou read the fine print - is a Sub-Normal
model.
Dometic in Brisbane stated the following
to a caravanner: they are not legally required to stamp the climate class
in Australia simply because it is not an Australian standard. In testing
the above models, the RM 2350 "just failed" to make the "T"
specification but is still a very strong performer in hot areas. The RM4401
was indeed SN rated and "more suited to European climate" (why
they sell it in Australia?)
They advised the RM2350 would be far the
better choice tthan a 4401. They also stressed that the biggest determinant
of performance on all 3-ways is of course ventilation and taller frigs
tend to work better that shorter."
DOMETIC (Electrolux) DETAILS:
Dometic P/L
6 Treforest Road
Clayton.Vic.3168.
0395455655.
PO Box 1140
Clayton South.3169.
email:dometic@dometic.com.au
www.dometic.com.au
It's impossible to overstress the importance of adequate cable to run
a 12 volt fridge. At least 95% of all such problems are traceable to this.
When the fridge is running the voltage measured
at the fridge end of the cable must be within 3% of that across the battery
that's driving it.
Most have about 0.8 volt (about 10% drop
and have not a hope of working properly.
For a two/three meter distance you need
at least 6 sq mm cable - and that's NOT the same thing as 6 mm auto cable.
Collyn Rivers
To Collyn - I was looking at running a 120
litre compressor fridge with 2 x 120 watt solar panels. I am tossing up
between 2 or 3 solar panels. If I go to 3 panels, would you suggest another
battery as I currently have only two.
To Sue - Your two 120-watt solar modules
will produce 80-85 watts each in hot places. Say 160 watts to be on the
safe side.In most parts of Australia at most times except mid-winter you
are likely to get a minimum of three Peak Sun Hours a day. The output
from the modules is thus 3 X 180 watts/day. This is about 480 watt/hours.day.
The fridge is likely to draw 400-500 watt/hours/day.
Charging/discharging incurs a loss of about 10% so your need is 440-550
watt/hours/day to be OK most places at most times, i.e to be ab le to
stay indefinately on site withoiut running out of power. Thus, you do
need another 120 watt module - and this would enable you to run one or
(efficient) lights.
Re batteries: a third battery would enable
you to run the fridge longer on those occasions when solart input is down
- but with three by 120-watt modules this should be rare.
The Golden Rule is economise on batteries
if necessary, but never on solar modules - on the basis that if you can't
generate it - it's not there to store anyway!. Trust this helps, Collyn
Rivers
Here is a tip I received today from the fridge man converting my two door
fridge to 12v operation. When you open the door of your fridge the cold
immediately rushes out and is replaced by warmer air and upon closing
the door the compressor sets about running to drag the temperature down
again.
Here is the tip! Replace all those plastic
coated wire shelves in your frig with aluminium shelves (bend them up
at the front to stop things sliding off) Apparently the shelves become
super cooled and when you open and close the door and the cold air is
replaced by warmer air the super cooled shelves then rapidly dissipate
their coldness into the new air rapidly cooling it down and the compresser
running time to return the frig to set temperature can be reduced by up
to 2/3rds. If you want to get really serious you can stick extra aluminium
sheets to all available walls in the frig.
The obvious benefit of reduced running time
is that the amps drawn out of your battery is less requiring smaller charger/solar
panels etc or batteries. If you are worried about appearance you can powercoat
the top of the shelves but not both sides. Make the shelves as thick as
possible for best results.
There is an ongoing debate about whether or not to travel with the fridge
running on gas. Of course, there are insurance considerations and you
must always remember to turn the gas off when refueling! There appears
to be no right or wrong answer, it's up to you to decide.
Many motorhomers can see no danger in running the refrigerator on LPG
while on the road as they have traveled for years with no problems. They
point to the safety of LPG powered vehicles and argue that we travel with
tanks full of petrol which is much more dangerous.
Others claim that travelling with the fridge on gas on is a disaster waiting
to happen. They argue that in an accident a broken line could increase
the possibility of fire, even an explosion. For them the only safe way
to travel is with the gas tank valves closed. Of course, there is another
option (besides 12v). If you travel less than four or five hours a day
you can turn your fridge off and it will still stay fairly cold, but don't
open it too many times."
- If you decide to travel with the refrigerator off here
are some tips for keeping things cold.
- Start the refrigerator the day before you plan to travel.
- Put cold soft drinks and beer etc. in the fridge the
night before.
- Pack the fridge full. Use cold drinks to fill space.
- Pack the freezer full.
- Make sure everything is cold before you turn the fridge
off.
- Know what you want before you open the door.
- Get everything you want at one time.
Dear Editor,
The "reply" below may be of interest to members, as it relates
to an inquiry 1 made of Electrolux Aust as to the apparent non-availability
of the "Tilt Tolerant" 3 Way Fridges in Aus-tralia as compared
with the range of "Tilt Tolerant" models that have been available
for campervans in the UK/ Europe markets for some years. (I quoted model
numbers)
I believe Electrolux here see most of their sales for caravan use, (caravans
normally being "levelled" by their owners on arrival at a site)
hence the traditional type of 3 way fridges can be sold to these buyers.
CMCA members can note, that only 2 models of the "Tilt Tolerant"
type are imported into Australia, at this time, no mention is made in
the "brochures" that they are the latest "Tilt" models,
I have found to date no camping stores that are aware that models RM4210
and RM4400 are in fact "Tilt Tolerant".
Electrolux Aust reply below; along with a reply from Electrolux UK to
a Mr Mawler.
In conclusion, Tilt Tolerant models are obviously recommended for campervans,
maybe the cost or lack of knowledge of them stops converters/buyers from
fitting them more often.
R. Roberts, W1507
"The refrigerators to which you refer
in your letter are not approved nor designed to meet strict Australian
Regulatory Standards and as such, are not available for sale in Australia.
Nevertheless we are pleased to advise that both models RM421O and RM4400
feature the tilt-insensitive cooling unit and are readily available.
We thank you for your interest in our products and trust that you find
the enclosed material of assistance. In any event, should you have any
further queries, please do not hesitate to contact us.
Yours faithfully,
0. Bach Marketing Manager, Electrolux Finch"
Recently. I was talking to a new van owner at an overnight spot, when
I saw a 24 inch spirit level on his stove. He told me that his partner
would stand at the stove top and call out instructions whenever they needed
the van level, otherwise their fridge often stopped working.
There is a much easier way. You will need the bullseye spirit level supplied
with the fridge (or if lost, BBC Hardware $6), a piece of timber say 6"
x2" and three small screws.
As the entire van has to be levelled to the freezer tray of the fridge,
park the van on a reasonably level spot, place the bullseye on the freezer
tray and draw the position of the bubble on a piece of paper. Note the
bubble has to be preferably at least touching the 'small inner circle.
On the sketch mark the direction of the front view of the van.
Next, take your piece of wood, perhaps trim it to fit into some handy
spot near the driver, and place the bullseye on the timber and hunt for
a reason-ably level (as per your sketch) spot next to the driver. If you
need to put it on thick pile carpet, then try placing the wood on a hard
cover map book. You will need to find this exact spot every time, and
you may need to mark the place in some way.
Next drill three holes in the base of the bullseye and the wood, and screw
the bullseye on loosely. Then, using one or two pieces of folded paper
be-tween the bullseye and the wood, ex-periment so that when you have
tight-ened the three screws you have dupli-cated the exact position of
the bubble as per your original sketch.
My experience is that the bubble should be at least a quarter inside the
inner circle, however I find the front! rear level is not so important.
These references apply to the type of bullseye with a bubble the size
of the end of a pencil. If you have a bubble as large as a 10 cent coin,
make due allowance.
If you have an Engel fridge the above information will only help you to
drain the sink or not fall out of bed, as an Engel works at extreme angles.
However, everyone should have a freezer thermometer marked at minus 10°C,
thus you will not need glasses to check the freezer temperature first
thing each morning and each evening. This will be the only guide to your
fridge setting adjustment, which you may need to do twice a day in extreme
conditions. Experience indicates that having too cold a fridge at night
can damage food as often as having too warm a temperature on a hot day.
Noel Souter, N1785
Dear Members,
Here are two hints that may be helpful. To level our motorhome without
resorting to blocks of wood under the wheels, Phil bought two Jockey "wheels"
that are used on a boat trailer. They have a flat plate instead of a wheel.
Two brackets are bolted onto the back bumper bar to clamp these onto back
when we are stationary. These can be raised or levelled by hand and cost
$120 for the pair. Phil has removed the handle from the top and welded
a large nut in place, so a ratchet spanner can be used - as the handle
was not convenient and got in the way at the back.
Ida and Phil Gurman, N4183
As I have often remarked in The Wanderer I am a mechanical engineer and
my knowledge of intricate electric's and electronics is somewhat limited
so I leave this area of the automotive industry to those professionals
that are much more
well versed in those areas when questions on these and associated subjects
are passed on to me. and this is one of those times. Collyn Rivers W8054
worries that some members are being encouraged to put more solar panels
on their vehicles than is necessary to provide the electric power which
would be ample for their particular needs.
A recently published survey on half a dozen
or so 30 to 80 like portable fridges showed a typical daily consumption
of 27 to 30 ampere/hours (at a constant ambient temperature of 28C). With
the 27 or so amp/hrs thus safely available a typical portable fridge can
be safely run for 22 to 24 hours before recharging at 100% discharge or
7.5 hours at 50% discharge. For periods beyond that a daily additional
of 27 to 30 amp-hrs will drive the fridge for long periods of time in
most areas of Australia. This output can be gained from a single 80 watt
panel given 5-6 hours of sunlight..
Collyn says by way of his own experience
he drives one large 77 litre fridge, multiple lights, a computer, a stereo/radio
and a satellite phone/fax continuously from only two 80 watt panels mounted
flat on the roof of his OKA. The table below sets out daily (24 hrs) electrical
consumption of 8 typical portable fridges, large to small. These tests
were held in a strictly controlled temperature environment held at 35C
for 12 hours. The internal temperature was set at 4C for all fridges.
SOURCE: Overlander Product Tests
Make Capacity-Litres Current draw
AMP-Hrs-Day
Autofridge 39 14.81
Engel 29 20.81
Trailblaze 60 26.50
Indel B 52 27.59
Fridgemate 30 29.88
Explorer 56 37.09
Swagman 60 40.25
Average 24 hour consumption 27.91
If you take out the Trailblazer, Explorer and Swagman as being larger
than most portables, the average is a mere 22.96 amp/hrs a day. Now this
article is posed for you all to digest as it has a great impact on the
touring way of life of a goodly number of our members who should always
take heed of Helen Welling's (Choice Magazine) advice and get several
opinions before outlaying large quantities of money on equipment which
may not meet the requirements for your particular purposes.
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